Pacific NW

Expeditions

Today we departed Sitka and sailed up the most fantastic coastline I’ve ever seen. A steady barometer and a sunny morning gave promise of another great day. We hastily took care of our remaining town chores. I made some minor repairs to the engine’s water cooling system and we were off! Blasting our new satellite radio as we steamed out of the harbor, I plotted a course off-shore so we could admire the country from the ocean on such a clear day. We went out, passing the sea otters and whales in Salisbury Sound, past the flamingo tree, and the hot sun beat down on our backs. All around us was incredible beauty, perhaps the most pleasing land and seascape I’ve ever experienced. To the west of the “Silent Partner” universe was the wide, wide Pacific ocean, a sweeping expanse of blue. To the south squatted the volcanic snow-capped crater of Mt. Edgecumbe and a series of vertical sea cliffs several thousand feet tall, the mini-Hawaii. To the north Mt. Fairweather herself and the accompanying Fairweather range soared above all else. Try to imagine a wall of ice 3 miles tall rising directly out of the sea. You can’t, nor could we believe what we were seeing. And to our east, between these two fantastic mountain features, stretched the vast and pristine wilderness west coast of Chichagof Island. High jagged peaks pushed their way out of a thick cloak of old-growth cedar and hemlock rainforest. To top it all off and what really stole my heart were thousands of small fascinating islands all along the entire coast, arranged in patterns of tight clusters and rings. My spirits rose until they were in tune with the geography, and I was giddy. I always laugh to myself when people ask me if I get claustrophobic on the boat. I will never forget the feeling that came over me as we sailed up this coast. It was extremely liberating, and my mind tracked up all the mountains, across the ocean, and through the islands as we rolled on. Our anchorage for the evening was equally as magic. Double Cove is set back in amongst the archipelagos and backed by the most striking wilderness. All the peaks and snowfields were on fire in the setting sun as we set the anchor. Neptune and I bushwacked through the rainforest to a nearby lake, which was filled with all manner of wildfowl. We found much bear scat along the way, a reminder that though we haven’t seen them yet, they are out. We returned to the boat at last light. From shore we looked out at “Silent Partner” and laughed. There she was, proudly and patiently waiting in yet another cove of indescribeable beauty. Each time I leave from the boat and come back to her in such situations brings a feeling of surprise and admiration. Sort of like coming back to the trailhead after a long hike, but in a much better and satisfactory way, because the journey is neverending. In the evening I installed a new VHF radio to replace the obsolete one I had that was made in the 80’s. We have all of the latest communications equipment aboard now. And we need it, too, for where we going. North of here lies the most remote stretch of coastline in all of North and South America. All the stars came out tonight along with the Aurora Borealis, which can now be seen every clear night. The north star is getting very high in the sky as of late. We’re on the 58th parallel now.