Pacific NW

Expeditions

In 1956 the tallest wave ever measured in the world washed through Lituya Bay. A massive 9.0 earthquake triggered the wave and stripped the thick forest from its shores down to bare bedrock. The wave stripped the forest to a height of 1,720 feet, 500 feet taller than the Empire State Building. Today we can see alder trees growing out of the bedrock, with a sharp line where the old-growth spruce start. Simply incredible. All day long the wind howled and we sat at anchor. This is wild country! I have never felt so small, exposed, and close to nature as I do right now. All I ask is for the ability to make the best decisions in navigating this country safely. All emotions are brought to the surface at once just being here. I am on a constant adrenaline rush and we are bombarded with incredible sights and experiences all the time. The whole day thousands upon thousands of Sandhill cranes flew north, high over the boat. I rowed to shore and made a failed attempt circumnavigating the perimeter of Cenotaph Island on foot. The west shore of the island is a high cliff inhabited by millions of birds. I scambled to the top and looked down at all the birds. They sounded like children crying in a Russian tongue. Something scared them from the water and they all took off at once. I was just leaving my perch above when they took flight. I instinctively flinched and ducked when then the sudden shrieking roar of the birds erupted from below. My ears hurt it was so loud! It gave me quite a scare. All around the island I heard the strangest bird calls I’ve ever heard before. I truly feel I am in another country now! The center of the island has a low 125 foot tall pass to the other side. The wave of 1956 swept over the top of the pass and uprooted every tree. It was here that my circumnavigation came to an abrupt halt. I tried for a bit to walk along the trees but soon became entangled in dense brush. The trees were stacked 20 and 30 feet deep above the ground and all covered with moss. I took a minor fall off one and gave serious thought about what would happen if I broke a leg out here. I decided to turn back immediately. It was the thickest brush I’ve ever seen. I kept the sun (when I could see it) over my left shoulder and tried to make a straight line to the edge of the island. It took me an hour to walk out 1/8 of a mile. On the beach once again I picked the thorns from my hands, emptied the briars from my boots and gazed fondly at “Silent Partner” riding at anchor. For all its hardships, boat travel is a very efficient way to move through this land. All day I couldn’t take shake the sensation of being exposed to the elements. This place just does something to me, unexplainable. Incredible legends have been lived out right here and I stand in awe of just having the privilege of being here.