April 23, 2011 Tyndall Cove to Shag Cove (Glacier Bay)

This evening the weather cleared after a day of soft, silent rain.  Tyndall Cove was a peaceful place where we rested up for a few days with a moose.  Each night he came down to the shore and bedded down under a tree near the boat.  Kelsey and I had a lazy day for the first time in a long while.  We played a few games of Scrabble, finished our books, and luxuriated by the hot wood stove.  As soon as the sun started peeking out, I got the itch to check out the “next cove over,” Shag Cove, just a few miles to the east.  We had more of an evening boat ride than a day’s run.  That evening boat ride turned into the “fantastic Alaskan magical safari!”  We bid farewell to our moose in Tyndall Cove and steamed out into Geike Inlet, where sunlight shimmered on shaving-cream moguls, high snowfields, and craggy matterhorn-type peaks in all quadrants.  As we entered Shag Cove we saw a humpback whale, a grizzly bear, a whole herd of mountain goats, a pod of dolphins, and a flock of ptarmigans all AT THE SAME TIME.  The grizzly bear was lumbering along the beach at a pretty good clip.  When he smelled our wood smoke he looked up and hauled ass over the snow, away from the boat.  This was a big-ass bear, all muscle and fat, none-the-scrawnier after the long winter in Glacier Bay.  Our evening motor made enough hot water the Kelsey and I each got to enjoy a hot shower in the cockpit, under the last rays of the evening sun.  We can look up from our anchorage and see the mountain goats grazing the sheer cliffs a thousand feet above, on Marble Mountain.  One of them is bedded down right near the boat, too!  You really have to hand it to Alaska!

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