Pacific NW

Expeditions

Yet another crystal-clear morning. All the water–even the big water– is like a glassy mirror and the sun is warming our backs. We got our first glimpse of the St. Elias mountain range today. We even saw Mt. Fairweather herself, standing proud at 15,300 feet. Even from a distance of 100 miles away the mountains loomed over the horizon, giving us the impression that we were sailing in a huge bowl bound by sheer walls of ice. I had plenty of time to daydream and think lofty thoughts as we steamed down the glassy channel. We passed over a 2,400 ft deep abyss where the Lynn Canal merges with Icy Strait and Chatham Strait. At this point we were bombarded by another pod of dolphins, briefly. 15 minutes later I was at the helm and lost in thought when the water erupted behind me! A lone dolphin rush-attacked from behind, leaping completely out of the water at me only to submerge again below my feet and in front of the rudder. It set my heart racing. I began to think about the concept of a “normal” routine in life, and how dangerous or invigorating it can be. I am on a voyage of long duration, a definate fraction of my life. Already I have seemingly experienced a year’s worth of memories. I am not merely travelling through this land and sea, but living with it. A normal day will bring whales, sailing, exploring abandoned towns, and enjoying the sheer pleasure of warming myself by my fire. Just another day in Alaska! I have found for myself that it is truly better to have more time than money. Just as I was thinking all this I heard the cry from Neptune “Thar She Blows, 12 o’clock!” Several more humpback whales were spouting and breaching a few hundred yards off. Tonight we are safe in harbor in the town of Tenakee Springs. Tenakee is a small town that consists of one “street” (a 5 foot wide gravel path) that runs along the water for several miles. On either side are houses and shacks and a few outhouses that run out on piers over the water. The center of town is a natural hot spring, over which they have built a fantastic bath-house. Tenakee is a wonderful place filled with nice people. Neptune and I spent the afternoon hiking around town, exploring, and later on I went for a soak in the hot springs. They were very hot and issue forth from a natural cleft in the rock. I tried putting my feet down to the bottom but it was deeper than I could touch. It is good to be here in a real town, without cars, and where people actually interact with other people and only work 40 hours a month. The whole world hasn’t gone crazy after all! Hurrah for Tenakee!