March 22, 2005 Lee’s Breezeway to Portage Bay via Petersburg Day 22
Lee’s Breezeway lived up to its name–very windy last night, williwaws sweeping down from the mountains above. It was much warmer this morning and we continued our transit of the narrows in sunshine. Around noon we reached Petersburg at the north end of the narrows. Petersburg is a fishing town set in a pristine setting and surrounded by towering peaks in all directions. Absolutely incredible! We obtained fuel, water, food, and temporary moorage, and spent a few hours walking around the town. Christoph found the best baseball diamond he’s ever seen, up above the town. The field was set up on a plateau with a line of jagged peaks as a backdrop for the outfield. Passing one house, we saw a strange sight: a dog that looked like half-wolf, half coyote, chained to a tree with two other dogs hanging dead from the branches above. I wanted to get a picture of this odd residential scene, but was too hesitant to produce my camera, lest the owners should emerge from the house. Only in Alaska! Leaving Petersburg, we swung out into the mighty Frederick Sound, and saw three of our firsts for the trip: the first glacier seen from the boat, the first iceberg, and (about time!) the first whales (orcas). This evening we are in Portage Bay, on the edge of Frederick Sound. Lee found some fresh wolf tracks on shore, and we had spaghetti for dinner. The bay is huge, shallow, and we are securely anchored in its center. Plenty of swinging room and dragging distance should the wind rise in the night. Silent Partner is so small and this country is so immense. Silent Partner is the center of our universe, a tiny capsule in which we carry out all of life’s necessities.
