May 22, 2005 Bettles Lagoon to Head of Esther Bay Day 83
Today Neptune and I turned pirate. We spied the ship as we were entering Esther Bay. She was a brand-new wreck, 35 feet long, partially washed up on the shore. Neptune circled in our galleon while I rowed out to the wreck, to see if there were women and/or precious cargo and spices to be carried off. The vessel was stove in on port side and her stern was grounded out with the pilothouse half-submerged. She had current licensing tags but was poorly maintained, and must have broken loose from her moorings to be washed up on this desolate shore. I walked around carefully on her bows that were high out of the water and pointed skyward; she was still rocking in the waves. While keeping a weather-eye to seaward to watch for British gun-boats, I reached into my bag of tools and began to vigorously exercise the law of the sea. I stripped the vessel for all she was worth, which wasn’t much. I made off with three handsome cleats that will fetch a fair price on the black market, but no fair maidens. Currently we are hiding at the uncharted head of Esther Bay, the perfect spot to launch out and surprise the next ship that passes by. Esther Bay actually is uncharted, and a really beautiful place. I have half a mind to bury our newfound treasure on one of the many islets that clutter the cove. Neptune rowed to shore and discovered the perfect swimming lake. You hike up a small waterfall to get there. The ravine is filled with monkey flowers and violets. Once at the top it opens out into heather and tundra, acres and acres of rolling meadows. I went for a swim in the lake and ran naked through the tundra to dry off. Each step into the moss brings forth several inches of warm clear water between my toes. Neptune was so excited about his discovery and his swim that he went for another swim– in the saltwater. Here he learned firsthand that the ocean is colder than a small lake, and also that it contains stinging jellyfish. Nevertheless, he had a great swim from the boat, and I admire his courage for staying in for so long. Right now the kittiwake gulls are dive-bombing the water all around the boat. With each strike they disappear underwater and bring forth a wriggling herring. Sometimes they eat it and other times they fly off with it, maybe to a nest. They are remarkable at fishing.