Pacific NW

Expeditions

Sailing overnight from Puamau, Hiva Oa to Bahie de Vaipee, Ua Huka. Perfect light breezes and sailing along at 6 kts under yankee and 1st reef main. Gifted several large stalks of bananas yesterday, and hiked to largest tikis in the islands at Puamau. Bid farewell to the southern islands and now will spend a week or two in the northern islands before heading onward to Tuamotus. We could easily spend a year here!

Time: 1225 Zulu
09 07′ 64″ S
139 23′ 71″ W
SOG 6 kts

Kaohah!
Sailed to Hanamenu Bay today along the N coast of Hiva Oa. Anchored in a lush valley with fruits of all varieties. In several days we will sail for Ua Pou, and then on to Nuka Hiva where we will be able to communicate via e-mail, update journals, send pics etc. Loving life in the Marquesas and living off the land and sea. Can’t wait to share more–in about one week.

09 42′ 83″ S
139 00′ 90″ W
At anchor, Baie de Hanamenu

Great sail from Hanamoenoa, to Tahuata to Hanamenu, Hiva Oa today across the Bordelais channel. On the desert side of the island–anchored up and swam in a large pool made centuries ago. Land looks like a blend of Eastern Oregon and Saudi Arabia. Hiked further inland and discovered massive ruins from the ancient civilization here. Learned to identify good coconuts and husk them in the jungle. Shark fins sighted and massive rays leaping out of the water in the bay!

Anchored up in Hapatoni Bay, Tahuata Island. Befriended by locals here and receiving incredible Polynesian hospitality! Boat loaded with more fruit than we can eat in a month, evening drives up the mountain to feed the goats, barefoot jungle explorations to ancient ruins, many new Marquesian friends teaching us how to live off the land. Mountain hiking, eating goat, Kari fighting off marriage proposals. Swimming with manta rays in the bay, snorkeling, music, getting proficient with French conversation and learning Marquesian language too! Incredible new friends with open hearts. Going full native.

Had a great 42-mile broad reach from Fatu Hiva to Tahuata today and are now anchored in Baie Hapatoni. Fantastic snorkeling right off the boat! TONS of technicolor fish among the coral. Tomorrow we plan to explore the village on the other side of the bay and trade for fruit. Yesterday Kelse and I hiked the road from Hanavave to Omoa on Fatu Hiva and hitched a boat ride back to Privateer. Afterward hiked to Hanavave’s waterfall with Kari and swam in the plunge pool with a giant eel, our daily activity. Life is swell in Fr. Poly!

At anchor day 2 Fatu Hiva, Hanavave Bay. Incredible hike to waterfall, through palm trees and hibiscus forest. Deep plunge pool at waterfall, perfect swims. Trading with locals for fruit–pamplemousse, papaya, banana bunches, mangos, coconuts,limes….

We are safe in an incredibly exotic anchorage on Fatu Hiva. Totally wild place. Took a walk through the village and were gifted fresh honeycombs from the local beekeepers! We’ll probably stay here for a week or so…it’s hard to believe that this is real–like being in a book almost.

Tsunami Alert. We are safe at sea in deep water. At 1900 local we have received an order to evacuate Atuona Harbor immediately. An 8.0 earthquake has reportedly struck the coast of Chile and generated a tsunami. A possible tsunami is scheduled to arrive at Hiva Oa at 0030-0100 local. 3 years ago a similar earthquake hit Chile and Atuona Harbor was sucked completely dry. No Thank You!! Fortunately, Privateer was already ship-shape with decks cleared for sea work when we received the orders. I am proud to report that we were the first of 13 boats to leave the harbor!

We are spending a pleasant night at sea in 8,000 foot deep waters, taking advantage of our “forced night sail” and motor-sailing to windward in very light conditions, to the island of Fatu Hiva, 40 miles distant. We should make landfall at sunrise and cannot wait to see Fatu Hiva!

We’ve learned an important lesson that the boat must always be ready for sea on a moment’s notice, and as always, be prepared to change plans at the drop of a hat.

0537 Zulu
09 52′ 19″ S
139 00′ 17″ W
SOG 4.4 kts

YEP! Life is pretty sweet here in Paradise!! There’s nothing more that we could ask for. Blue marlin and fresh mangoes for dinner, meeting other world cruisers who have INCREDIBLE stories, being gifted with strange delicious fruits and the Polynesians are super friendly and laid back. Almost every person–man and wahine–has incredible tattoos and we are transfixed by the island lifestyle. Clearing customs was a breeze with much laughter and smiles. There’s no going back–this is the ultimate mind-warp! Viva la Marquesas! Too cool!

We have dropped the hook in PARADISE! It is beyond believable that we are here. It looks like lord of the flies, with sheer cliffs towering into the clouds, wild horses and beautiful lush vegetation. We have already been visited by several friendly cruisers who helped us run out our stern anchor, gifted us with pamplemousse and strange fruits the likes of which we have never tasted before, and let us know where we can do all of our provisioning. It is very laid back and we are happily drinking in the sights and smells of this incredible landscape.

We are 24 days to the hour from San Francisco. 3,400 miles on the odometer with all of our course deviations (jibes, wind shifts, equatorial waypoint) for an average of 5.9 knots, 141.67 nautical miles per day. Total fuel burned: 15 gallons (mostly getting off the continental shelf quickly from SF and 1.5 days in the doldrums). There is no need to run our engine to charge our batteries–we are making a whopping 24.1 amps from our solar panels right now!! Total time at the tiller: 15 minutes, plus one hour this morning upon landfall.

Maintenance: 2 control lines chafed through on the Monitor wind vane, engine shutoff cable corrosion, lost rubber plug for stove pipe cap, solenoid switch propane line failed. All have been repaired with spares on board.

Cruisers coming from Galapagos reporting no wind and motoring the whole way. Also interesting to note that Privateer’s hull is perfectly clean, while the boat hulls from Galapagos are brown. We have certainly picked the right strategy leaving from San Francisco. It has been an incredible sail. We have come a long way. Way to go PRIVATEER!!!

2000 Zulu
09 48′ 25″ S
139 01′ 87″ W
(Atuona Harbor, Hiva Oa)
SOG: At anchor: Safe in Harbor!!