Pacific NW

Expeditions

It was low tide when I awoke, and I rowed to shore to check out the first set of rapids that we would need to transit to exit the narrows. Since it was a spring tide and lower than average, exiting Ford’s Terror could only be done during the 5 minutes of high water slack. I hadn’t anticipated this unknown second set of rapids, and it threw a wrench in my plans, as there was a traveling distance of about 40 minutes between the two rapids. This first set, though the weaker of the two, was foaming with white water this morning. We prepared the boat to enter just as it was weak enough to get through. Christoph and Lee were able to do a very good bow watch as I gunned the engine full out into it, and we proceeded at barely under one knot. Our boat speed crept down to 0.0 knots for a few seconds, and I was about to abort the first mission. But slowly we gained speed, tenth of a knot by tenth of a knot, until we escaped the clutches of the rapids and we were on our way, speeding toward the second set to be there at slack. We were early, but better early than late! I wanted to get out into Endicott Arm so that we could cruise down to the Dawes Glacier for a few hours before sunset, and motor back in the dark to Tracy Arm Cove. It was already 1400, meaning we would only have a few hours to watch the glacier before sunset. I have often dreamed of laying eyes on the Dawes Glacier ever since weather forced us away from it in 2003. Finally, we traversed the second set of rapids without incident, and cleared the shoals and uncharted rocks. I sounded the air horn in victory as we exited the canyon. Out in Endicott Arm, we were met by many huge icebergs that had recently calved off of Dawes Glacier. They weren’t there when we had entered and my heart sank. I knew navigating at night in foul weather amongst all the huge icebergs would be extremely foolish, but we were so close to the glacier, only 12 miles! I refused to let my pride supercede good judgement, and made one of the toughest calls I have ever made on the water. We headed back to Tracy Arm Cove in daylight and safety, leaving behind the glacier. In doing so, we eliminated the opportunity of seeing it tomorrow due to fuel consumption and trip logistics. While extremely disappointed, I gained a deep feeling of satisfaction for having made the right choice. It always pays off to listen to your gut feelings. It just didn’t feel right to me to make that south turn to the glacier. Mother nature’s schedule once again wouldn’t allow for a trip to Dawes Glacier, and it will remain in my mind, for now, an exciting mystery.